If you’ve come to photography since digital became the norm, or if you have only used modern commercial B&W film, you may not be familiar with the way colorblind and ortho materials record color. It’s different and it isn’t necessarily straightforward.
With the exception of monochromatic cameras, digital cameras and modern film are panchromatic. The name implies all color, and they get amazingly close to that. Before panchromatic, orthochromatic film was the latest, greatest. The name implies “correct color,” but it was correct only insofar as it was closer to the way our eyes perceive than the colorblind materials that came before.
Even the name “colorblind” strays a bit from reality. The film sees UV color that is invisible to our eyes into the violet and blue light wavelengths. The other colors/wavelengths are more or less undetectable to the film. If a color is recorded as density on a negative it is because of the UV, violet, or blue light that reflects off a given surface.
Because UV levels are variable — dependent on the season, the weather, the time of day, and latitude, it is impossible to give a colorblind/ortho emulsion a single ISO number. We need to work within an ISO range. Even the developer used influences the speed of the material. This is the reason the first photographers to adopt the materials carried elaborate speed charts. Making our own custom charts is very useful.
Be aware of light temperature. We are all familiar with “golden hour.” The light at the beginning and end of a day with clear skies is warm. Yellow, orange, and red predominate in the light. A colorblind emulsion will require more exposure than a typical exposure meter might indicate. At high noon on a clear day, it will be the opposite. Depending on the color of your primary subjects, you’ll need to think, always, about giving more exposure or less exposure than your meter indicates. High elevations are particularly tricky. My advice: bracket!
Pictures are better than words.
|